Lou Pebre D'Ail Lauris

I am busy finishing off the next magazine this week, so here's a guest review of a local restaurant by my father in law!

Credit crunch lunch

Blue Sky Living challenged its readers to find and review the best value restaurants in the Luberon and Les Alpilles. Here Stuart Southgate presents the case for Lou Pebre d’Ail in Lauris which offers a three course lunchtime menu for just €13.50

Lou Pebre D’Ail, 78 Avenue Joseph Garnier, Lauris, Tel: 04 90 08 27 00

As you approach Lou Pebre the first impression is not one to set the pulse racing. Right on the main road leading into Lauris, the outside with its plastic windows suggests better times. Through the porch and into the restaurant there is an immediate change. Arriving at 12.40 we were struck by the fact that all the tables were taken save for ours and another table for two. The atmosphere of bonhomie was apparent. Forty plus customers were already hard at work, the wine was flowing and the wonderful smell of good food pervaded the air.

The fixed price menu promised three courses but there were nearer five. To start with the choice was simple - vegetable soup or a salad. The soup was perfect with a definite flavour of coriander coming from the rich mixture of vegetables. My companion having expected no more than a combination of lettuce, tomato and cucumber so often the fare of less expensive restaurants, was surprised to be presented with a salade niç oise, which was loaded with anchovies, eggs and olives and tossed in a peppery dressing. Just a couple of kilometres down the road in trendy Lourmarin ordering the same salad in one of the many cafés will cost you only just less than the entire Pebre D’Ail menu.

The two of us were already thoroughly involved in the atmosphere. Serious eating was coupled with urgent debate at all the tables, as in typical French style the customers discussed and argued the topics of the moment - the earthquake in Italy, Sarkozy’s height envy as he stood on tiptoes at the G20 summit and the incredible balance and speed of the waitress who darted from table to table with such alacrity that one couple enquired whether she had trained as a ballet dancer.

The pichet of red wine included in the price was disappearing fast when a large plate of excellent charcuterie arrived. The dried ham, blood sausage, gherkins and pot of porc rillettes had not been on the menu, but the owners clearly felt we needed something to keep our stomachs in gear for the next course.

While we waited we had the chance of taking in the decor that made this such an interesting room. On all the stone walls there were a variety of prints, water colours and oils. Most striking were the wonderful Isirdi prints which captured the style of Lou Pebre. In typical Provencal fashion, where Christmas decorations are often year round appendages, two small Santa characters were propped up near the bar.

By this time the conversation had reached such an animated level that my attempted eaves dropping was proving a complete failure. One customers was so cross with his fellows that he had ceased to remonstrate and sat in a corner chewing a large branch of rosemary.

The main courses were a classic paupiette de veau and cote de porc. Both met with approval but I was increasingly concerned how I would do justice to what was to follow. My companion was quick to comment on the beautiful fresh vegetables accompanying the pork. Green beans, carrots, and courgettes all cooked al dente.

The three promised courses had gone by and yet exquisite baskets of cheese appeared on many tables, including ours. An array of 8 different cheeses all in perfect condition were served including Roquefort and a St Nectare. A selection of sweets including Crème Brulee, a rare crème au beurre sel, ice cream and sorbets concluded a rare feast. Coffee was also included without any extra cost.

What this amounted to was a five course meal including wine and coffee all for €13.50 Throughout the food was of high quality and the service friendly. Restaurant bills are often unpleasant surprises, but at Lou Pebre D’Ail there were no hidden extras, the price on the blackboard outside was the exact price we were charged. The only shock was that the owners had succeeded in providing so much food for so little and still somehow managed to make a profit. We left the restaurant shaking our heads in amazement at the value on offer.

Two final pieces of advice to people considering eating at Lou Pebre D’Ail - starve yourself for a week in advance and book ahead because an available lunchtime table is as rare a sight as a local sharing a drink with a Parisian.

Email your reviews of the best value restaurants in Provence to

jamie@blueskylivingmag.com

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